Kuriya

Plated alongside a mountain of finely shredded cabbage, thick slices of golden pork show off a tender cut surface at Kuriya. Tucked away in a residential pocket just north of Kinshicho Station, this small shop approaches the classic tonkatsu meal with understated precision, from frying thick-cut meat to seasoning every side dish.

The pillars of the menu are the special pork loin (toku rosu) and special pork tenderloin (toku hire) sets. The toku rosu features a thin, crisp crust holding a generous slab of pork, yielding sweet fat and tender lean meat. Diners often start by sprinkling a little salt from the counter to taste the pork on its own, before moving on to rich tonkatsu sauce and hot mustard with rice. Those who prefer leaner, delicately soft meat with gentle bite gravitate toward the toku hire.

The supporting elements receive just as much care. Shredded shiso leaf is tossed through the towering cabbage, cleansing the palate between bites of rich cutlet. A piping-hot miso soup loaded with slippery nameko mushrooms and scented with dashi, house pickles of cucumber and turnip, and a hearty bowl of rice underpin the tray. As the meal winds down, the owner serves smooth almond jelly and hot tea, leaving a clean, refreshing finish.

Because the owner-chef manages everything single-handedly—from frying and serving to the final bill—meals take time to arrive after ordering. Photography of both the shop and food is strictly prohibited, and payment is cash only. It is a place best visited when you can disconnect from cameras and screens and focus quietly on the meal in front of you.